dirt track racing setup tips
Take that, tech inspectors!Good Guy vs. Bad Guy.
The car's center of gravity (CG) needs to be lower when the grip is high. A typical spring layout would be: left-front (LF) = 800; RF = 900 (or a 750 with a full spring rubber, if spring changes are not allowed); left-rear (LR) = 200; RR = 225 (or a 175 with two full spring rubbers). We can observe cars that three-wheel off the turns and hear the throttle being cycled on and off.The setup may look like this: LF = 350; RF = 325; LR = 185; RR = 150 (double the rear springs for the swing arm car); Panhard bar at 12 inches left.A more sideways driving style is sometimes helpful for mostly aerodynamic reasons.
We won't change the setup at this point in time, but the driver will need to think more about throttle control coming off the corners to prevent wheel spin.LM: We will want to soften the setup a little more while the track is transitioning through this phase, and we need to reverse-split the front springs. Increase the Ackermann to 1 degree in 15 degrees of steering. That is probably why rear steer (left tire forward) is sometimes so helpful. Keep the air pressure high.A typical setup might be: LF = 400; RF = 450; LR = 225 (400 pounds swing arm); RR = 275 (500 pounds swing arm); 56 percent left-side weight; Panhard bar at 11 inches left and 12 inches right, mounted to the right side of the chassis; and no front Ackermann with zero rear steer. Mount the newly painted coil against a freshly-painted flat black firewall and it’s barely noticeable. Moving up a size from the stock rim might be the answer, and your track tech won’t know all the different stock rim options for every different car in the class.Tire compounds are equally important and can make a ton of difference in traction. As the g-forces change, our setups must change too. Quoting the rules, our driver makes his case and is declared correct but it is explained that the rules will be changed to read that the torque converter will be mounted in the car. Let’s take a look at some of those reasons:The late, great Fireball Roberts avoided chemical dip fire retardant used to treat driver's suits. Our intent was to provide some thoughts on making changes to the basic setup that might improve the car and make each phase better.The key, again, is to be sure to make changes based on your track conditions related to your type of car. For each type of car, we will set up for the six conditions listed above. The way we read that rule is that you can go to a salvage yard and get stock front springs off of a dump truck and put them on your car and still be in the rules. In short, they will be all over the track.Once the track has hardened, it will quickly continue to change toward black and then to slick. A low CG number for a dirt car is around 17-18 inches off the ground.Hobby Stock (HS): We might run a stiffer right-front (RF) spring and a stiffer right-rear (RR) spring. Just keep talking and making your point. Slightly increased Ackermann and small amounts of rear steer (LR tire coming forward) will help the car turn through the middle.The track has now blackened over and the edges of the groove are loosening up with the surface material turning to drier sand. Change, change, everywhere a change... , a message from social protests of the '60s, could have been written in reference to dirt track racing. So, armed with the knowledge that everyone cheats, we’re going to look at cheating from alpha to omega, how to cheat on the track and get away with it, and what to do when you are caught. According to Davis Technologies, the unit is driver-removable, very compact, easily hidden and the wiring is simple. We can move the Panhard bar over to the left side of the chassis with the heights at 11 inches left and 9 inches right. We will make some changes to the previous spring setup.
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