Grinding new valves is not recommended because the factory equipment is so much better than any machine shop grinders that the concentricity cannot be maintained. 80s......185 atc, Yamaha tri-moto 200, 85 200x with tons of work If you do decide to lap your valves, be sure to clean off ALL of the lapping compound when done. I just had new valve seats professionally installed by a machine shop and I have a new set of valves ready to go in. didnt see any on ebay. The grooves made by lapping no longer match when the valve heats up. 80s......185 atc, Yamaha tri-moto 200, 85 200x with tons of work This test is easier to do on an overhead valve cylinder head removed from the engine, but it can be done on a valve-in-block flathead. In other words you will make them worse. The contact area between the two, especially on exhaust valves, is important for heat transfer and engine longevity. The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it. Lapping might be enough to fix it, or the valve and/or valve seat may need to be trued up. With the modern tooling, 3 and 5 angle cuts, in a word....no. Is lapping necessary with new seats and valves?

Lapping of used, pitted valves and seats will likely not do anything except use up some time, effort, and lapping compound. Great advice from all you guys so a light lapping it will be.

I just had new valve seats professionally installed by a machine shop and I have a new set of valves ready to go in.
i bought new stainless steel valves and spring kit. What mechresto said. i think i can buy all the parts i need for about 1500 including a new head, piston/ rings, crank assembly, gaskets, cam chain/ tensioner, and seals. 1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W1936 Plymouth P4,48K miles,1949 Dodge 1 ton rack body Yea, I'd lap them, but prior to doing that check for the stem to guide fit too. True lapping is not recommended because it will cause the valve to become unseated when it heats up. when the new valves get here what do i need to do to the head to make sure they seat properly? If any of the kerosene leaks past any of the valves, then that leaking valve seal is not good enough.
thats about what the labor to fix mine would cost. any instructions would be great. Is lapping necessary with new seats and valves? I just had new valve seats professionally installed by a machine shop and I have a new set of valves ready to go in. new heads are already cut and just need valves to be lapped Can’t lap coated valves You can post now and register later. There are measuring tools for checking the concentricity of the valve seat to the valve guide, and of the valve face to the valve stem. I have a replacement '75 CB500t head with valves that are in fairly good condition and valve seats that are for the most part not bad either with some light pitting at most. I have new valves also that I'd very much like to use rather than put them on the shelf. I'd add that a liquid leak test is always a good practice, too. Let the block sit overnight (and put a drain pan underneath it). I, too, always lap new valves/seats after they've been replaced and cut or ground. i removed the old valves and ordered new ones through honda. thanks. It's always a good practice to double check the work of any machine shop.

1972 Mustang Mach I
Or is lapping just an old archaic process usually reserved for well-used / pitted valves and seats? By Cantedvalve, May 20, 2019 in 1969-70 Technical Forum. Never woulda thought of it.) The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it. Or is lapping just an old archaic process usually reserved for well-used / pitted valves and seats? I have my block on a stand which will allow me to invert it. The other option is a light lap (which I always use), it gives extra insurance against possible errors in machining. New valves in a used head sort of depends if the seats are still in good shape. After the lapping, I think I will try the "upside down leak test" suggested by Elwood (Smart idea.

Is lapping necessary with new seats and valves? Or is lapping just an old archaic process usually reserved for well-used / pitted valves and seats? has anyone ever installed new valves? Seat width and placement can be checked with a sharpie marker, place 4 lines on the valve face, parallel to the stem equal distance apart, then "slap" the valve against the seat, the resultant wiping away of the marker will tell you what you need to know. 1949 Dodge 2.5ton rack body, 1943 John Deere LI, 1952 John Deere AOThe Brick (1950 PH Racetruck) 1948 B-1-BQ(yep, its a BBQ), 1949 COE, 1945 COE, many, many, B series 1/2 tons with parts The forums of P15-D24.Com, Mopar cars and trucks from mid 1930s to late 1950s New Valves in not-new heads. 83 YTM 200,84 200X,,85 350X basket case,86 350X parts trike,86 350Xroller needs top end, 86 250SX, i've heard of lapping but i'm not sure how to do it. You'll need to have the valves and valve springs installed, but the cylinder head, tappets, and camshaft should not be installed. If you have an account, The forums of P15-D24.Com, Mopar cars and trucks from mid 1930s to late 1950s Valve Seat Lapping - Is it Necessary for New Valves and Seats?1951 B3B custom high side pkp
I guess i'm old school but I'd want to check them before everything got put back together and then find out  you've got a leaker.

Lapping compound is an abrasive, and not good for engine internal parts. this is for an 85 110 head. Good valve-to-seat contact is not just about sealing the combustion chamber and getting power out of the engine. and on motosport.com they have a new oem head for 600 bucks. As long as they’re not beat up and still seal, should be good to go.

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